Because I moved from Pittsburgh to Maine, and I’ll be damned if I’m not going to appreciate why they call this place Vacationland. With a little preparation — SPF 50 sunblock, beach umbrella, Zyrtec and maybe a flask of the Dr. (McGillicuddy) — I’ll be fast on my way to becoming a beach girl.
Willard Beach
Tuesday, June 5, 2:30 p.m.
Overcast, 70?, water temp at shin level: 59?
The location of this beach has been something of a mystery. Mainer directions — notorious for missing information — have led me all over South Portland. Using Google Maps, I was sure to get there, right? Wrong. Where I got was a gas station at the end of Broadway.
So let’s clear up directions first thing: Take State Street across the Casco Bay Bridge. Veer to the left and go through three lights. Turn right onto Cottage Road (where the scary Jesus is). You’ll come to a V-intersection with Dipietro’s on your right. Turn left onto Pillsbury Street. Proceed until you reach a four-way stop sign. Turn left, then take your first right onto Willow Street. Go to bottom of the street and park.
Once I found destination Willard, I parked and bee-lined for the sand. There weren’t many people around, either because a storm was brewing or because it was Tuesday afternoon. A few families were taking advantage of the playground. I sat at the nearest picnic table on the sand and listened to a threesome of young folk musicians. A few people quietly strolled the shore line while their dogs ran free. The atmosphere was relaxing, but, again, it’s Tuesday. Note to self: Return on weekend. If a crowded nightmare, stick to weekday outings.
Higgins Beach
Thursday, June 7, 1 p.m.
Sunny, 70?, water temp at shin level: 54?
There is literally nowhere to park unless you want to be towed or are willing to shell out $10 for the lot on Ocean Ave. I took a chance and illegally parked at the Higgins Beach Inn. Walking past rows of adorable beach homes, it’s easy to see why people love this place. Note to self: Buy beach house.
The beach is small but the area from the rock wall to the water is wide with hard, packed sand — perfect for beach sports. Boys were playing Frisbee, women were sunbathing and couples were playing fetch with their dogs. The atmosphere was sporty, most like what I’ve encountered at beaches far south of New England. Higgins-lovers say the beach is more about a state of mind than a physical location. I didn’t quite get this, but perhaps being land-locked most of my life has disengaged that part of my mind. Another note to self: Expand brain for beachy parts.
To get there from Portland, take Rte 1 South to Scarborough. At the intersection with Amato’s, Exxon and Mobil, turn left onto Black Point Road (Rte 207). When the road splits in V-intersection, veer to left and go over the marsh bridge. When 207 ends, turn left onto Rte 77. Almost a mile down, turn right onto Ocean Ave., which leads directly to beach.
Ferry Beach
Thursday, June 7, 2 p.m.
Sunny 70?, water temp at shin level: 54?
After much confusion between Ferry Beach in Scarborough and Ferry Beach State Park in Saco, I created my own map using the zoom feature on Google Maps. From Portland, follow directions to Higgins, but when 207 ends, turn right to stay on Black Point Road. Ignore the Dead End sign and keep going — it might be there to shoo away tourists. Turn right onto Ferry Road, which leads you to the beach parking lot. Signs say it costs $10 to park, but no one was there to enforce them.
You pretty much step right onto this tiny beach from your car. The sand is very soft and clean — perfect for sand creations. There were two families with a total of seven babies and toddlers and one on the way. Because there are no waves, this is an excellent beach for toddlers just learning to swim and people who love building dribble castles.
Although the temperatures here were the same as at Higgins, it felt warmer. Still not warm enough to swim, and who would after watching a little girl squat at the shoreline for a quick pee. Note to self: Find restrooms. Share information.
East End Beach
Friday, June 8, 10:15 p.m.
My very first Maine beach experience was at East End beach three summers ago. I wasn’t impressed. Since then, I’ve taken a few night strolls along Portland’s only beach and depending on the time of year it has either been quite tranquil or swarmed with mosquitos.
This night, I took my chances and headed down. Just as I stepped out of the car, a police officer called out that the park closed at 10 p.m. and he was there “removing all the gays” because of people “up there” complaining. I wasn’t aware there was a “gay” problem or even what that meant. Apparently the naysaying people “up there” are ruining it for us night beachers. Note to self: Suggest sensitivity training for Portland cops.
Sunday, June 10, 12:30 p.m.
Sunny, 78?, water temp at ankle level: 66?
Round two at East End involved no obstacles or “gay” problems. From the Eastern Prom, the beach and park looked crowded. I managed to find a parking spot along the trail down to the water where people were lounging, flying kites and picnicking on the grassy hills. Further down on the beach, families were picking shells, sunbathers were soaking up rays and older folks were enjoying the view from the benches.
Like I remembered, the shore line was near impossible to walk. There are jagged rocks and shells that’ll bloody sensitive feet as you attempt to wade. Note to self: Purchase water shoes.
Crescent Beach
Friday, June 8, 10:40 p.m.
After the East End scandal, I attempted a night walk at the next closest beach, Crescent Beach in Cape Elizabeth. The State Park was closed. You would think the locked gates would be a deterrent, but I was already feeling criminal. I parked just outside the gate, grabbed a flashlight and headed toward the entrance. Twenty feet later, I was spooked by the utter darkness and headed home. Note to self: Purchase spot light and firearm.
Sunday, June 10, 1:30 p.m.
Sunny, 78?, water temp 50?
Last summer, I spent most of my beach time at Crescent, so there were no surprises here. As remembered, the atmosphere was relaxed with families, sunbathers, beach-walkers and shell-pickers. As I dosed off I heard only the squawk of seagulls and two young boys discussing the definition of “wipe out.” Note to self: Look up “wipe out” in the Webster’s.
Where to put your toes in ...
Willard Beach
Located in South Portland, this sandy, mile-long beach appeals to families. Dogs are permitted from 6 to 9 a.m., May to Sept. The beach has gentle surf, restrooms, lifeguards, snack bar, picnic tables, playground, scenic views of Casco Bay and free parking for 75 cars. Call 767-7650 or go to www.southportland.org.
Higgins Beach
Located in Scarborough, this beach is popular with surfers and young folks due to its large waves and firm sand for sports. No street parking is available between April and Oct., but you can park in a nearby lot (holding 120 cars) for $10. Higgins Beach is also good for fishing, kayaking, sunbathing and strolling. Leashed dogs are permitted from 5 p.m. to 9 a.m., June to Sept. From Sept. through June, dogs are permitted all hours off leash. Surfing is not permitted from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. between May and Sept. Call 883-4301 or go to www.higginsbeach.com.
Ferry Beach
Located in Scarborough, this family beach is tucked away behind Prouts Neck Country Club and sheltered from ocean winds. This little beach has a boat ramp, passive shoreline, sand dunes, seasonal restrooms, benches, picnic tables, garbage cans and parking for 70-80 cars ($10 fee). Unleashed dogs are permitted from sunrise to 9 a.m. and leashed dogs permitted from 5 p.m. to sunrise between June and Sept. Call 883-4301.
East End Beach
Located on Portland’s Eastern Promenade, this beach is rocky with views of Casco Bay, and offers picnic tables, changing rooms, restrooms, playground, tennis courts, boat launch, boat docking and free parking for 70 cars. Unleashed dogs are permitted from 5 to 9 a.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. between April and Oct. According to the Maine DEP, water quality can be affected by urban run-off and discharge from the treatment plant. Call Portland Parks & Recreation at 874-8793.
Crescent Beach
Located off Rte 77 in Cape Elizabeth, this state park beach is the largest beach near Portland. Sandy and picturesque, this beach has picnic areas, grills, playground, restrooms, bathhouse, snack bar, lifeguards, sand dunes, fishing, trails for strolling and nature spotting, boat launch and large parking lot. The beach is a mile long with light surf. Leashed dogs are permitted between Oct. and March. Fee is $4.50 per person. Call 799-5871 or go to www.maine.gov.