This is exactly what I’ve found at Emilitsa.
Occupying a space on Congress Street that is much more city than country, the Greek restaurant was opened by John Regas in February. Since then, it’s been packed with diners as word has spread around town about the amazing food. Which means, it can be a good idea to get a reservation, particularly if you want to dine on the weekend.
Rather than a typical bread basket, a meal at Emilitsa begins with a delightful small plate of pureed yellow lentils drizzled in Greek olive oil and topped with sliced sweet onions and a few pieces of crostini. Not being a whiz with Greek wines, which make up the entire wine list, I relied on the extensive knowledge of our waitress during our most recent visit to guide me to the wonderful Cambas Mantinia ($8 glass/$32 bottle), which was dry with luscious fruity flavors. The short beer list includes brews from Greece, Belgium and the UK. Adam started with the Old Engine Oil ($7), a dark, creamy beer, and then tried the Gouden Carolus Ambrio ($7), a sweet, flavor-filled pale ale.
The appetizer menu is extensive and I could easily craft a full meal from these tasty offerings. They include spanakopita ($8), classic potato-garlic puree with grilled pita ($8), sauteed chicken livers ($9) and tomato salad ($12). Adam selected the trio of Greek dipping sauces and grilled pita ($12), which included tzatziki, pureed red caviar and eggplant salsa. Each was robust and tasty.
For my starter, I went with the roasted organic beet roots and greens with Greek olive oil, garlic and muscat wine vinegar ($9). Being a lover of all things beet, I couldn’t have been more pleased. The sweet taste of the beets and the tart complement of the vinegar created a sinfully delicious combo.
The entree menu offers nine choices, grouped as meat specialties, Greek comfort food, fish and seafood and vegetarian, with prices ranging from $18-$32. Since I’m a vegan, it’s no surprise I opted for the evening’s hearty and satisfying vegetarian dish of giant white beans baked with a tomato dill sauce and served with peasant bread and kalamata olives ($18). Adam, being a traditional omnivore, faced a more difficult choice, but he ultimately selected the classic souvlaki ($23). The grilled pork tenderloin came skewered with orange peppers and was served with grilled apricots, dodoni feta and kalamata olives. He ate every bite.
Judging by the stylish, metropolitan feel of the decor, it could be easy to assume this is the sort of place that serves tiny portions, dripping with pretension. Nothing could be further from the truth. Instead Emilitsa brings the wholesome goodness of a Greek grandmother’s country kitchen into the heart of the city. No one ever leaves hungry.
— Avery Yale Kamila