Local Flavor: A1 Diner

Where: 3 Bridge St., Gardiner When: Mon.-Thur., 7 am-8 pm; Fri.-Sat. 7 am-8:30 pm; Sun. 8 am-1 pm How: 582-4804 or www.a1diner.com
2008-06-17
Avery Yale Kamila
The A1 Diner offers an extensive selection of beers and a daily specials board.
Avery Yale Kamila
The noodle bowl with vegetables, tofu and fermented black beans.
Avery Yale Kamila
Pork chops with orange horseradish sauce.
Everyone always raves about the Forest City dining scene, and as Portlanders my husband and I can attest to being spoiled by the overabundance of good eats. But to hear people talk, I sometimes get the impression that the rest of Maine is a wasteland of chain restaurants and family-style eateries that specialize in throwing everything in the Frialator. And while there’s no denying the existence of these restaurants left behind by current cuisine trends, if you know where to look there are plenty of oases of deliciousness scattered throughout the state.

Case in point: The A1 Diner in Gardiner. Perched against a bridge in a sleepy suburb of Augusta, the A1 Diner looks like a perfectly preserved diner car from the 1940s (which is exactly what it is). And while these retro good looks are clearly part of its charm, don’t expect to find a menu that is a relic of a bygone age.

Sure you can order diner classics, such as meatloaf ($7.95), burgers ($4.50-$7.95) and liver & onions ($11.95), but, oh, there’s so much more to love. Take, for instance, the beer list. You can choose from such fine beers as Geary’s, Amstel, Old Marley, Bluebird Bitter, La Fin Du Monde and Achel.

The slim wine list is no slouch either, offering a decent selection of whites and reds. On our most recent visit, Adam ordered up an Allagash White ($3.95) and I went with the Columbia Riesling ($6). Both proved an auspicious start to our meal.

For a vegetarian like me, the A1 provides plenty of choices. These range from things like Smart Dogs ($2.50) and savory mushroom veggie burgers ($5.75) to eggplant parmigiana ($12.95) and wild mushroom ragout ($13.25). I opted for a small green salad ($4.95) and the noodle bowl with vegetables, tofu and fermented black beans ($7.95).

The salad, a simple mix of shredded Romaine, red cabbage and carrots, is a favorite of mine with its expertly composed balsamic vinaigrette. I’m also extremely fond of the noodle bowl. With al dente rice noodles covered in a savory sauce and mixed with still crisp vegetables, such as snap peas and broccoli, the noodle bowl is rich with complex flavors and contrasting textures.

With the menu divided between old standbys on a laminated sheet and the day’s specials tacked up on a board behind the lunch counter, Adam also had a plethora of selections to contemplate before making a decision. He thought about the Ruben with horseradish sauce ($7.95) and the turkey, cranberry and lettuce sandwich ($7.25), but he ultimately opted for the pork chops with an orange horseradish sauce ($15.95) from the specials board.

Not one to get all flowery when describing his food, he stopped after taking a few bites to say: “These pork chops are the best I’ve ever had.”

High praise, indeed. After lingering over our meals and drinks, we felt totally full and satisfied and had no room for dessert. I even had to have my leftovers packed up for the next day’s lunch (which was just as delightful the second time around).

This all goes to show that even in Maine’s small towns, there is chow to be had that will please even the most pampered Portland palates.

— Avery Yale Kamila