But, alas, all I had to console me was a handwritten sign on the door from owner Chris Godin, thanking Portland for the best 12 1/2 years of his life. Selfishly, all I wanted to know was how I was going to recapture the best 12 1/2 burrito-eating years of MY life? Where was I going to find the perfect tempeh burrito? Who was going to ask me if I wanted black, pinto or mixed beans?
The answer, sadly, was no one and no where. Sure there are other burrito joints in town, and many are quite good. But Granny’s humble digs and simple, flavorful food was somehow tied up in my mind with everything that makes Portland quirky and lovable.
So I sighed and moped and made sacrifices of tofu at my tortilla strewn alter. It didn’t matter. The always trying months of January, February and March dragged on without the spicy warmth and hippie-goodness of Granny’s to console me. All seemed lost.
But then in the middle of April, just like the yellow crocuses that magically reappeared in my garden, Granny’s arose from the dead. Its reincarnation occurred on Congress Street in the spot formerly occupied by Uncle Billy’s Rest-o-bar. My tortilla prayers had been answered.
Despite its time spent in the afterlife, Granny’s food is as delicious and wholesome as I’d remembered. The menu includes all the old-school Granny favs we grew to love (and then mourn) over the years. Quesadillas and burritos can be ordered up with sweet potato, guacamole, beef, chorizo, chicken, mango, sweet chili chicken and daily vegan specials. Prices range from $5.50-$7.75.
The decor blends Uncle Billy’s with Granny’s. Gone are the stuffed animal heads and velvet Elvises, but the prize fish and the jukebox remain. That spacey planetary painting from 420-land now hangs on the wall, along with the blackboards listing tortilla choices. Outside, don’t let the sign reading Neon Dinner (the name of the restaurant back in the 1980s) confuse you. A Granny’s sign is on its way, I’m told.
The new spot represents a collaboration between Godin and Uncle Billy’s owner John St. Laurent.
“The reason why I did this is because I got tired of working so hard,” St. Laurent says and adds that he continues to offer his signature BBQ through his catering business at www.unclebillysbbqmaine.com. The only hold-outs from the Uncle Billy’s menu are the sweet potato fries ($3), garlic rosemary fries ($2.25) and chili cheese fries ($5.50).
On our most recent visit, Adam and I settled into a table near the bar. He ordered a PBR on tap and I stuck with the self-serve ice water. We started out with the chips and to-die-for salsa ($2.50), and quickly chomped our way through the tiny cup of salsa and needed to ask for more. That night’s vegan special ($7.25) was made with fiddleheads in a balsamic dressing, so of course I had to go with this choice. The fiddleheads turned out to be a little overcooked for my taste, but I give Granny’s bonus points just for including this yummy wild food on the menu. Adam ordered up one of his go-to burritos, the jerk chicken ($7.75), and made quick work of it.
Since we had a party to go to, we appreciated the fast service and filling food. I, for one, have vowed to never take Granny’s for granted again. But I’ll continue to make my tofu sacrifices, just to be on the safe side.
— Avery Yale Kamila