Hail to the helpers

New Chef et al. offers New England classics and local flavors
By Avery Yale Kamila
2008-04-16
Shwan Patrick Ouellette
A grilled flatbread pizza is on the app menu at Chef et al.
Tom Johnson has been readying himself to open his own restaurant since he was 13. That’s when he first started cooking. By 17 he’d progressed to management, and over the years helped open and run about 20 corporate, chain-style restaurants.

Then he moved with his wife to Vermont and enrolled in the New England Culinary Institute. From there, he scored an internship at MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit. This allowed him to work closely with chef/owners Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier, who also own Arrows and were recently nominated as Best Chefs of the Northeast by the James Beard Foundation.

“I learned a ton about culinary arts, good flavors and restaurant skills,” Johnson says of his time at MC Perkins Cove, where he became sous chef once his internship ended.

Next he worked in Portland at Rí Rá and then the Harraseeket Inn in Freeport for six weeks, before the opportunity to strike out on his own presented itself.

“I’ve been dreaming of opening my own restaurant my whole life,” says Johnson, 35.

This dream became a reality when he opened Chef et al. on Forest Avenue in Portland two weeks ago.

“The et al. stands for all the other people who helped make it happen,” Johnson says. “The chefs I’ve worked with over the years. The people who’ve made this restaurant possible. We figured we’d pay tribute to all these influences. Now Chef et al. is the person we answer to to make sure we’re doing it right.”

The airy restaurant has a minimalist feel, with wheat-colored walls, black tables and a granite-topped bar. Service includes lunch, dinner and a weekend brunch. Johnson plans to change the menu to reflect what’s coming off the local farms.
“I’ve lived in New England my whole life,” Johnson says. “I’m trying to do the foods from the area I know and love.”

The dinner menu includes entrees arranged under categories of From the Land (New York sirloin, chipotle hanger steak), From the Air (crispy duck breast, free range chicken pot pie), From the Sea (day boat catch, maple glazed seared salmon) and For the Vegetarian (vegetable bread pudding, squash ravioli). Each of the dishes, which range in price from $18-$28, come with sides such as seasonal vegetables, polenta cake, whipped potatoes or demi salads. Johnson says he’s deliberately making the entree portions smaller, to give people room to enjoy more courses.
“We tried to focus on appetizers, salads, soups and desserts at very reasonable prices,” Johnson says.

All desserts (such as Killer Brownie Sundae and Harvest Bread Pudding) are priced at $5 and starters range from $6-$10.

“We’re very reasonable and flexible for what guests want,” Johnson says. “We’re completely open and available to do whatever folks want. It’s easy just to say yes.”
The restaurant also says “yes” to late night diners, by serving a bar menu from 10 pm until midnight during the week and until 1 am on Fridays and Saturdays. Hospitality workers, college students and teachers can get 50% off this bar menu each night with proper ID.

Johnson aims to create a laid-back atmosphere where local people can come for a drink or a leisurely meal. At the same time, those headed to the theater or a show will appreciate Johnson’s background in the corporate world, which means he can get food on the table in a flash. He’s very aware of Portland’s vibrant food scene and is eager to contribute his own twist.

“I hope to live up to some of the standards the other restaurants in Portland have set,” Johsnson says. “I hope to be a casual restaurant where people come and get great food.”