I have to admit, though my trainer’s been set up in the basement since December, rare has been the day I’ve actually ventured down the stairs for a ride that goes nowhere. But that doesn’t mean I’m not eager for the weather to clear (finally!) so I can get my trusty Trek 1000 out on the roads.
But first ... the all-important spring tune-up and safety check.
I always take my bike to Gorham Bike & Ski in Portland because the staff is super friendly and I never have to wait long for an inspection for the Trek Across Maine. But I wanted to know what I could do to get my bike ready on my own, so bike tech Tim Corcoran gave me a private clinic to help get me riding.
The front
Tim starts at the beginning — the front wheel — because most bikes have been sitting or hanging since the fall. A good spin of the front tire lets him know if the bearings are good to go or need to be adjusted. Since mine passed the test, he moved on by removing the wheel and placing it on a trueing stand.
If you’ve ever noticed a slight ticking sound when your tire rotates, your wheel isn’t true. Tim corrected mine with slight adjustments to a couple of the spokes (they provide the tension for the rim), and the ticking noise disappeared. He also wiped down the front brakes and cleaned up the rim.
When returning the tire to the fork, he makes sure there’s equal distance on either side before pushing it up into the dropout. Now’s the time to check the brake pads for alignment and squeeze the grips to make sure they’re working correctly.
The back
Next up is the rear axle check, and shifting the derailleur all the way to the outside makes working here easier. Tim removed the chain, released the rear brake lever and pulled the wheel from the fork. We went through the same trueing process, wiped down the back end with the tire off, then returned the wheel to its home. Tim says, “the skewer should close easily to about half way, and then you force it over the rest of the way.” He always leaves the skewer lever pointed straight up or to the back.
The rear brakes can be manipulated by hand if they’re not properly centered. Be sure to squeeze the brakes after you’ve made your adjustments to make sure they stay in position.
Everything in between
What’s most important between the two tires is the chain. Tim loves Sram chains because they come with a quick link that allows you to easily unhook the chain. Any tune-up means a thorough cleaning of the chain, so it gets removed and has a soak in a wash or degreaser. After a good hosing off, the chain should look pretty new. When lubing, keep in mind that a little goes a long way.
After the chain’s returned, the cables are checked — one click on the shifter for one cog on the rear cassette. If you’re slipping a gear as you spin through, you probably need to have a cable adjusted.
Tim pays attention to the rear cables and housings because they can get corroded after a season riding through muck. He also checks the crank arm (for the pedals) and tightens it with an allen wrench. Cleaning out the cleats is a must for just the right shoe fit. A little lube makes for an easier exit.
And lastly, but of huge importance, Tim recommends checking your seat bag. If everything’s still in there from last season you may be asking for trouble. Tim says tubes can sometimes wear from the rubbing that happens inside the bag and two used CO2 cartridges won’t do you any good out on the road.
Flat repair 101
Maine’s back roads make for some of the best riding around, but if you’re wheeling around in the middle of nowhere you better know how to change a tire.
I’ve been riding for years without this knowledge, but after a tutorial from Tim, I’m confident I can get the job done. I think.
1. On the rear tire, shift until you’ve moved the chain all the way to the outside. Unhook the wheel and flip the quick release lever on the brake.
2. Release all the air from the tire. This makes it easier to get the tube out.
3. With your tire lever (which is always in your seat bag, right?), work your way around the tire until one side is free from the rim. When you’ve done this, pull the tube out.
4. If the reason for the flat isn’t obvious, use your hand pump or CO2 to inflate the tube enough to find the hole. You should also run your hand around the inside of the tire to remove any debris.
5. Put a little air in your new tube to make it easier to push it back inside the tire. Don’t let it touch the ground or you’ll have sand inside your tire.
6. Push the valve stem through the tire, then work your way around from the bottom, forcing the tube into the tire. Next put the tire back into the rim.
7. Begin inflating but check your line on both sides of the tire to make sure it’s even before topping it off.
8. Push the tire back into the fork, setting the chain on the same cog it was removed from. Close the skewer lever, flip over your brake and get back on the road.
Gorham Bike & Ski offers free tire repair clinics every Thursday at 5:30 pm.
Tim’s tips
• Because of the debris on the roads in early spring, try a larger tire (25 or 28) or one that has Kevlar built in.
• If you need a new chain or cassette, don’t buy it until the roads dry out to spare wear and tear on the new parts.
• Tim recommends a chain cleaner kit (sold at Gorham Bike & Ski) if you’d like to work on your chain at home. The kits do a much better job than cleaning with a rag because they can get to dirt and grime inside the chain or between the links. “After you hose it off it looks new,” he says.
• To maintain your road bike, give it some dry lube about once a week (if you’re a regular rider).