The table we’ll build is six feet long and can accommodate up to 400 pounds. The project should take about four hours. Once all the pieces have been cut, assembly and finishing can be a great family project.
Tools needed to complete the project are: tape measure (8-foot plus); pencil; speed square; extension cord; quick clamps; adjustable wrench; circular saw; power drill with 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch paddle drill bits and a Phillips head screwdriver attachment; sander; router with rounding bit; the proverbial protective goggles.
The materials needed are: five six-foot pieces of 2x8 spruce (tabletop planking); four 35-inch-long pieces of 2x4 spruce with a 22-degree angle cut on each end. Make sure the cuts run parallel (legs); two five-foot pieces of 2x4 spruce (seat planking); three 37-inch pieces of 2x4 spruce. Set the pieces on edge, measure down two inches, and cut at a 45-degree angle (tabletop braces); two 29-inch pieces of 2x4 spruce. Each end should be cut at a 45-degree angle (center braces); 16 galvanized carriage bolts (3/8- x 3-inch); two pounds 2 1/2-inch decking screws.
There are four basic steps to assembling your picnic table.
Step 1: To assemble the tabletop, set the three 37-inch tabletop braces on edge (long edge up) on a solid level surface. Mark the 2x8s at three feet; this will be the mark to assure that the middle brace is centered. Then measure for an eight-inch overhang on both ends. Measure a 1 1/4-inch overhang along the front of all three braces. Then attach the first 2x8 to all three braces using the decking screws. Attach the remaining four 2x8s with a 1/2-inch gap between each piece. Be sure to keep the middle brace centered with the three-foot mark.
Step 2: With the tabletop upside down, position the legs against the inside of the tabletop braces, setting the inside edge of each leg 12 inches from the edge of the table. Attach each leg by drilling two 3/8-inch holes through the supports and legs, and then secure the legs with carriage bolts. For added safety, countersink the nuts and bolts by drilling the first part of the hole with a 1/2-inch bit, then continuing to drill the rest of the way through with a 3/8-inch bit. The nuts and bolts should be facing the inside leg.
Step 3: With all four legs in place, it’s time to attach the seating braces. The tops of the braces should be 19 inches (or higher if you want more leg room) from the ground. Measure for a 14-inch overhang on each side of the legs. Attach the braces by drilling holes and installing carriage bolts as in the previous step. Next, you will install center braces between the center brace of the tabletop and the center of the seating brace at each end of the table. Offset the braces when you place them against the centerboard so you can screw from the opposite side, then measure for square and screw the other end of the braces to the seating supports on each end.
Step 4: To install the seating, flip the table right side up. Set one five-foot-long 2x8 seating plank flush with the outside edge of the seating braces. Measure for a two-inch overhang at each end and attach the seat to the braces with 2 1/2-inch decking screws. Do the same for the other seat on the opposite side of the table.
For a more stylish and finished look, round the entire perimeter of the tabletop and seats using a router with a rounding bit. Remember, the router bit turns clockwise, so always work in a counterclockwise direction.
Your new table can be finished with paint, stain or sealer. If you opt for stain or sealer, applying a wood conditioner beforehand will help to assure a consistent finish.
Kaile Warren of Windham is CEO/Founder of the national handyman franchise Rent-A-Husband. Kaile is also a national home improvement expert for the CBS Early Show, HGTV and Parade Magazine. When not on the road or working he spends his time teaching his newly adopted white shepherd, Maintenance, how-to ... Send your questions for Kaile to editor@themaineswitch.com.