Flare with flavor

El Camino Cantina dishes out local and organic foods in a relaxed atmosphere
By Jessica Dafni
2007-08-29
Tim Greenway
El Camino's smoked chicken enchilada comes with ancho barbecue sauce, organic black beans and rice.
Waiting 30 minutes for a table at El Camino Cantina in Brunswick allowed my best friend, Molly, and I the chance to scope things out. Under the low, colored lights, we took in the bright paints, patterned tabletops and chrome. Yes, chome. Hub caps and other pieces of trim from cars — even a large round steering wheel — pleasantly disrupt more traditional Mexican images on the walls of the restaurant. In the cozy dining room, opposing mirrors create an illusion of more space, reflecting the same view into infinity.

The same funky retro-Mexican style appeared on the servers we saw passing by. Each wore a different printed, cotton apron and a big smile. One server even wore a traditional Mexican-style party dress. Everyone we encountered was friendly and helpful. But, as we found ourselves at our table and still waiting (for drinks and later, the check), I began musing on whether all the waiting might be intentional.

Were they mimicking the stereotypical take-your-time attitude of old Mexico? Or were people just a bit too friendly? Hard to tell.

A trip to the bathroom at El Camino is a must, even if only to wash your hands. The tin can labeled “lard,” and holding a spiky green cactus, atop the toilet punctuates electric blue walls and bright lights. Push the soap dispenser button and gritty, powered soap fills your palm. This quiet little room could be a great hideaway after one too many El Camino margaritas ($7.50).

I didn’t dare try one. The Herradura resposada, cointreau and fresh lime juice sounded fine, it was the “ring of fire” (a glass rimmed with jalapeņo) that put the fear into me. Instead, we each went for an El Camino limeade ($3), made with fresh limeade and organic coconut milk. Other drink options are Maine brews on tap ($2.50-$4), a variety of bottled Mexican beers ($3) and Blue Sky Natural Sodas ($2).

The regular menu covers the basics: chips and salsa ($2.50), chips and guacamole ($6), nachos ($6.50+), tacos (try them with maple chipolte marinated scallops for $14.50), quesadillas ($7.50+) and salads ($7.50+). Each choice offers options to spice things up. Many items are organic (like the black beans) or house-made each day (tortilla chips, sour cream, guacamole).

The special’s board goes far beyond basics. From the six entrees listed, I selected the Cuban shrimp ($13.50), a delightful dish of Maine shrimp sauteed with onion, garlic, jalapeņos, tomatoes, cumin and lime served over black beans and rice. I expected a bit more kick, but enjoyed the subtle flavor combinations. Molly chose the wild mushroom tacos ($15), flour tortillas filled with wild mushrooms, roasted heirloom potatoes, pablano chiles and swiss chard, served with black beans and rice.

We both took a doggy-bag home. After devouring our chips and guacamole appetizer, and taking note of rose petal flan with fresh berries ($6) among the three desserts listed on the special’s board, we chose not to finish our entrees.

The flan, complimented with a local organic coffee, was worth the fore-thought and the sacrifice of our entrees. Fresh berries, house-made organic whipped cream and the supple melt-in-your-mouth flan made me wish two things: that I didn’t have to share and that I had ordered dessert first.

Next time.

El Camino Cantina is tucked away on Cushing Street in Brunswick. For Southern California style Mexican, visit from 5-9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday or 5-9:30 p.m. Saturdays. FMI call 725-8228.