Chocolate’s dark side

It’s all about the cocoa content for today’s connoisseurs
By Avery Yale Kamila
2007-08-21
Tim Greenway
Tasters gather round the table to sample the six chocolate varieties.
Tim Greenway
A taster notes likes and dislikes.
My chocolate obsession began early in life. At first it revolved solely around Whitman’s samplers. I was fascinated by these boxed wonderlands of intoxicating aromas and chewy, gooey goodness and would carefully read the guide on the underside of the box, plotting my next pick.

Being in the under-5 set, my chocolate intake was closely regulated by my parents, and I was only allowed to indulge in one or two at a time. A big exception came one Easter morning when the bunny brought me a giant, purple foil-wrapped egg filled with Whitman’s decadent wonders. Feeling the holiday spirit, my parents let me indulge to my heart’s content (with only a few warnings about overconsumption from my mother).

Of course, those words of warning came back loud and clear as I leaned over the kitchen sink to allow all that melted chocolate to make an involuntary exit.

Unlike other foodstuffs (bacon, scrambled eggs, bloody Marys, Pepto-Bismol) I’ve been unable to keep down over the years (and as a result have never been able to consume again), that Easter incident didn’t curb my appetite for chocolate. But it did teach me the valuable lesson of moderation. (Thank god, or I’d probably be the size of Len Libby’s life-sized chocolate moose by now.)

My chocolate intake remained rather pedestrian through high school, as I enjoyed mass marketed peanut butter cups and chocolate coated crunch bars. But when I packed up and headed off to college, I discovered an emerging world of specialty dark chocolates (courtesy of the on-campus natural food store and the unlimited buying power of the dining plan debit card — thanks Mom and Dad!).

Going from milk chocolate to dark chocolate was like graduating from white zinfandel to pinot noir. The flavor is richer and more nuanced. The texture is less waxy and more silky. And the aroma entices with hints of exotic spices, ripe fruits and mysterious sensuality.

Lately my daily dark chocolate habit has been justified by reports linking the lavish treat to cardiovascular health. Which is a good thing, because who wants a side order of guilt with their chocolate? I know I don’t, especially since I tend to go into meltdown mode when a crazy schedule keeps me from my daily dose.

So whatever you do, don’t come between me and my
dark chocolate. I may have a sweet tooth, but I also have a dark chocolate bite.

Switch tasting results

It was a hard job, but I managed to round up 13 friends of Switch and got them to try six varieties of dark chocolate. The tasters ranged from dark chocolate newbies to those who admitted being dark chocoholics. Here’s how the tasters ranked the chocolate.

1. Scharffen Berger
Mocha
62% Cocoa
This flavored chocolate with crushed coffee beans scored high among java lovers. It reminded one taster of “Mexican chocolate.” Because of the coffee beans, the texture is not as creamy as other bars.

2. Chocolove
65% Cocoa
With a low cocoa content, a sweet taste and a creamy texture, this bar was judged the best of the plain dark chocolate varieties sampled. Comments included “light aroma” and “best melt.”

3. Valrhona
Le Noir Extra Amer
85% Cocoa
Surprisingly this high cocoa bar claimed third place. Tasters noted that it is “surprisingly creamy with a bitter after note,” is “a little waxy, with acidic finish” and that it “would be great to cook with or make a chocolate martini.”

4. Dagoba
Organic New Moon
74% Cocoa
Tied in fourth place, this chocolate was described by tasters as everything from “sweet” to “smooth to start and then acidic and bitter finish” to “bland.”

4. Hachez
Cocoa D’Arriba
Mango-Chili
77% Cocoa
The wildcard in the bunch, this spicy sweet flavored chocolate tied for fourth. It’s strong aroma was enjoyed by many and the chili was described by one taster as “great afterburn.”

5. Green & Black’s
Organic
70% Cocoa
This bittersweet chocolate didn’t have many fans in this tasting, with comments like “chalky,” “bitter” and “yuck.” However one taster did write “I like this no matter what anyone says.”

Heart-healthy chocolate

Chocolate lovers rejoice. Recent small-scale studies have demonstrated chocolate’s ability to boost cardiovascular health, due to the antioxidants found in cocoa. However, the type of chocolate you eat has a big influence on its benefits. One study showed that antioxidant absorption from chocolate declined significantly when milk chocolate was consumed instead of dark chocolate or when dark chocolate was washed down with a glass of milk. Research also shows that the processing of cocoa powder and chocolate syrups wipes out most of chocolate’s health benefits. Add to this population studies that link junk food and sugar consumption to cancer risk. So when it comes to eating chocolate for health, go for high cocoa content and as little sugar as you can handle.


What is dark chocolate?

True dark chocolate contains no milk and is defined by its cocoa content. If you’re new to dark chocolate, look for bars in the 50-60% range. Aficionados tend to go for bars in the 70-80% range. In general, a higher cocoa content bar will be more bitter and less sweet, as the sugar declines and the cocoa levels rise. (A 100% cocoa bar is commonly known as unsweetened baking chocolate.) Those who enjoy the higher percentages may enjoy cocoa nibs, which are broken bits of roasted cocoa beans. These whole, minimally-processed treats are wonderful additions to ice cream and baked goods.